Spectacularly situated above the Marne, this hilltop town north of Dijon has ancient ramparts, gateways, a 13th-century cathedral, and a statue of Diderot (he was born here) surrounded by volumes of his encyclopaedia. Down a quiet side street, this Logis de France, an old converted church, is run by its owners, Yves and Brigitte Chevalier. It has vaulted ceilings, well-proportioned public rooms, interesting antiques and country-style furnishings. “A lovely stay,” one couple wrote. Rooms vary: “Ours was spacious and comfortable.” “Ours, very good value though small, had character.” But one room was thought “shabby”. Everyone praises the food: “Outstanding, even the cheapest menu.” “Dinner on the terrace was delicious.” The menu might include trilogie de foie gras de canard; carré d”agneau rôti aux épices. The large terrace is pleasant for drinks and breakfast.