On the small island of Lopud, 45 minutes by ferry from Dubrovnik, this 'charming hotel', run by its owners, the Vilina family, is warmly recommended. It stands on a bay, by a medieval Franciscan monastery (which rings its bells regularly). 'The building has been refurbished to a high standard. Bedrooms in the front have wonderful views over the small port. Meals are taken on a terrace with this view. The owners' daughter, Ivona Simunovic, is an artist: her paintings hang in all the rooms, and there are many artistic touches. The delightful staff go out of their way to help, and they speak English to a high level. The breakfasts are first class: freshly cooked eggs and bacon plus the usual offerings. Speciality for the en pension dinners is fish, freshly caught.' Modern touches include Wi-Fi, satellite TV, safes and minibars in the bedrooms, and the family promise figs, grapes, tangerines and olives from the garden, and 'a cup of home-made rose brandy'. Lopud is traffic-free and has 'fabulous sandy beaches', 20 minutes' walk from the hotel. 'For those who find Dubrovnik too crowded with tourists, this is an ideal retreat.'