In Kythira's 'very pretty' old administrative capital, this white-walled, blue-shuttered, two-storey 19th-century mansion stands on a hill. There are 'breathtaking sea views', from the terrace where breakfast is served under white parasols, and from many of the spacious bedrooms. With stone arches and tiled floors, they are simply furnished in local style. The owner/managers, Frédéric Ferrière-Urvanowitz and François Crépeaux, and their staff are friendly. The breakfast buffet has ham, boiled eggs, fresh fruit, and French touches (home-baked fruitcake or chocolate cake, sometimes croissants); there is a large choice of teas. Steps lead up from a road: 'No cars at night,' we are assured, 'only cicadas and doves disturb the peace.' Kapsáli beach, safe and sandy, is a short walk away. 'The island, birthplace of Aphrodite, is quiet and unspoilt.' No public transport: rent a car, take a taxi or walk ('wonderful paths').