By the beach, in a garden of flowers and fruit trees, this 'very relaxed' hotel on the coast north of Mitilíni (capital of Lesvos). The owners, Iannis and Daphni Troumpounis, promise 'no Greek nights, no TV in rooms, no disco'. They and their staff are 'endlessly helpful', says a recent visitor. The simply furnished bedrooms are in four low buildings: all have a balcony or terrace; and a fridge. No air conditioning: 'The Aegean breeze does the trick.' Pedal boats and canoes are provided free. The garden leads straight to a pebble beach without having to cross a road. Sandy beaches are five minutes away. An alfresco breakfast has 'everything you want'; salads are available at lunchtime. Every Sunday, Daphni and Nina cook together with the guests and prepare a seaside table dinner under the moonlight. A restaurant is a short walk away; slightly further is the old fishing village of Thermí, which has shops, eating places and regular buses to Mitilíni.