Located in the quiet residential Lapa area, opposite the National Museum of Ancient Art, is this former palace now elegant boutique hotel. Parts date to the 17th century, others the 18th century. The rooms are all different; some have stucco ceilings and hand-painted tiles, others polished wood or flagstone floors and white-painted furniture. One room has been converted from the former kitchen, with a huge stone hearth, another is wood-panelled. There are three lounges, filled with antiques and books on Portugal's history, and three courtyards, with a swimming pool (heated in autumn/winter) on an upper level with views to the Tagus river. Breakfast is a buffet but with hot dishes to order, and at night the bar is perfect for a before-dinner drink or nightcap. The area is not central to nightlife and restaurants (but they are a short taxi ride away) and there's no lift.