On the site of a monastery, this imposing 18th-century mansion (Relais & Châteaux), facing the Loire near Tours, stands back from the fairly busy N152, up a curving drive. A unique feature is its twelve chambres troglodytiques carved out of the chalky rock (tuffeau), adjacent to the main building. Inspectors were entranced: “Our huge de luxe double was reached by steps leading to a terrace with river views. With its two large wardrobes, each with full-length mirror, and chest of drawers, it was one of the few hotel rooms in which we”ve been able properly to unpack. It had also a large settee, two armchairs, a table and a desk.” Public rooms include a “rather plain” small salon, and a “cosy” candle-lit bar, originally the monastery”s summer kitchen, hollowed out of the rock. The restaurant, in pale yellow and coral, is in three sections. The largest has river views, and there is a fish tank: manager/chef Didier Edon, from Brittany (Michelin star, 15 Gault Millau points) specialises in lobster. “Our superb meal started with foie gras de canard à la façon d”un nougat, and ended with tarte fine aux figues caramelisées. With a glass of Vouvray moelleux to accompany the former, and Sancerre with the lobster, we were in heaven. Without exception, the staff were friendly and efficient. Outside the restaurant is a terrace with tables and chairs. To one side there is a lawn and, a little further down the slope, a heated swimming pool sheltered by trees and a hedge. A perfect base for visiting the central Loire châteaux and the Vouvray vineyards.” The owners, brothers Philippe and François Mollard, also own two other hotels in the region, Château de Noizay, Noizay, and Château de Marçay, Chinon (qv).