In the main street of an old market town south of Orléans, this ravishing Renaissance manor house, a hotel since 1774, is now a very stylish one (Relais & Châteaux), run by the Barrat-Clément family owners. Didier Clément, the talented chef for 20 years, has two Michelin stars, 17 Gault Millau points for his “subtle classical” cooking. Behind a rather plain exterior is a flowery courtyard with fountain, where breakfast and drinks are served in summer. Visitors on a return visit in 2004 found cuisine and service “still of a high standard”. There are “stunning reception rooms” with floor-to-ceiling mirrors, lighted candelabra on a grand piano, “glorious flowers”. The dining room has 18th-century panelling and a giant, low-slung chandelier. “The quality of the china, cutlery and glassware is a pleasure in itself.” Most bedrooms (“ours was hard to fault,” said another guest) face the courtyard; some have “a lovely view of country and old tiled roofs”; those facing the street can be noisy, but have double glazing. “Ours was well endowed with mirrors. Amazing bathroom: the shower had six faucets.” Parking (for which you pay) comes with windscreen cleaning. Romorantin has some ancient houses and a fascinating folk museum. Close by is the Sologne forest (Alain-Fournier country — you may find a copy of Le Grand Meaulnes by your bed).