On a pilgrim route, this ‘magical village’, spectacularly situated on a wooded hillside above a gorge, is one of the most romantic in south-west France. Opposite its famous Romanesque abbey, which houses jewelled relics dating back to the fifth century, is the Garcenot family’s 17th-century timbered inn. ‘A lovely place,’ was one recent comment. Old stones, beams and rustic furniture ‘add to the cosy feel’. One couple had a ‘big, handsome’ front room facing the abbey, but a ‘superior room’ was found ‘very small’. The food is enjoyed. ‘A delicious dinner, beautifully presented’. There is a pretty garden dining area, and a more formal beamed dining room.