For over 150 years, five generations of Papillons have owned and run this former relais de poste. It stands by a humpbacked medieval bridge in an old village on the River Dourbie, in the western Cévennes. For the last quarter-century, Jean-Michel and Maryse Papillon have presided. Devotees (many of them British) return again and again. “It just gets better and better,” says one, on his fourth visit. “We re-meet old friends: it is like a wonderful club.” Other comments: “Amazing value.” “Total charm and efficiency.” “What an ambience!”. The best bedrooms have “delightful views of the river” and, writes Madame, “we still have no TV in the rooms: our guests come for the peace.” M. Papillon”s cuisine du terroir, on the short en pension menu, “gets better and better”. He raises his own chickens, makes charcuterie from local pork, and jams from the fruit in his garden. One visitor thought the wines “relatively expensive”. By the swimming pool in the small garden, guests hear “birdsong and the lullaby of the river”.