Near the Spanish border, in the remote Aldudes valley, this village is a key Basque folklore centre. Here, Pascal and Christine Arcé”s “beautiful country hotel”, by a trout river, is much admired. “Sublime location, very good value, one of our favourite hotels in France,” say guests. Others wrote: “Deeply wonderful: a centre of gourmet cooking which retains the character of an old-fashioned family-run auberge.” A three-generation group was treated with “great friendliness”. “Every detail lovingly attended to — pleasing room decor, copious breakfasts (fruit, eggs, etc).” Pascal Arcé, whose family have been here since 1870, wins 13 Gault Millau points for, eg, foie gras mi-cuit au Jurançon; croustillants de langoustines jus crémé au gingembre. “Service is friendly, informal. Interesting wines.” “In a week on demi-pension, we never had a repeated dish. Mme Arcé was superb: hands-on leadership of her all-woman team. Her staff are so well trained, so pleasant. The good was good, wholesome, not very innovative – just what we like.There is a large dining room, and a vine-covered terrace for outdoor meals. “Our spacious annexe room had interesting old furniture, a large balcony.” A “gorgeous” swimming pool, across a footbridge, stands in its own sunny garden. “Eccentric church bells” ring at night. Good walking in the hills.