In this upmarket little town near the Spanish border, Roger Larralde and Richard Pérodeau”s white, late 19th-century mansion (Relais & Châteaux) stands quietly near the broad sandy beach and pedestrianised shopping streets. Furnishing is a mix of Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Some of the “sumptuous” rooms have a private garden or terrace. “If there is heaven on earth this is it,” said visitors. “Our room was luxurious. All the bedrooms, suites, and the restaurant are equipped and decorated with original Art Deco pieces. The gardens are beautiful with assorted birds and red squirrels; food was excellent and ample. Service was professional.” The pool area “is the lively hub of the hotel”: here drinks and meals (Basque cooking by Guillaume Applaincourt) are served. On cool days, guests eat in the formal restaurant with conservatory (which “shelters a unique collection of owls”). Breakfast, “a delicious spread”, if “a bit pricey”, can be taken on the terrace, with roses.