This small town (famous for its marble sculptures), with wooded hills behind and sea stretching out in front, is a 30-minute train ride north of Lucca. In a pedestrianised street, the 16th-century Barsanti-Bonetti palace has been turned into this elegant hotel. 'It has high, ornate ceilings, much trompe l'œil, antiques, contemporary art works and huge flower displays,' says a nominator. 'What it lacks in views it makes up for in all-round quality. Excellent management; highly efficient, bilingual receptionists; every member of staff was caring and courteous. Very good breakfast in large conservatory. Smallish, gravelled courtyard garden with two huge palm trees and much birdsong. Wide Versilia beach ten minutes by taxi.' The bedrooms have antiques and a complimentary decanter of Vino Santo; some have frescoes. 'Our room, one of the cheapest, though near a lift, was quiet.' No restaurant: light meals are served, and advice is given about local eating places.