John Ruskin stayed in this pensione on the Dorsoduro in 1877. Now owned by Marc Sibuet and Regina Segre Amar, who promise 'discreet service and peace', it faces the Giudecca canal and is a short walk from the Accademia, yet away from the throng. 'A far pleasanter spot than the hubbub of St Mark's Square,' says a visitor this year. 'The setting cannot be matched and the standard of accommodation is high. Our corner room, traditionally furnished, had parquet flooring; the side and front windows had breathtaking views.' Breakfast is a generous buffet served either in the breakfast room, in your room or on the terrace with a view of the Guidecca Canal. 'Very good meals with excellent wines' are served in the informal bar/café/restaurant, La Calcina, and its canalside terrace.