On a working organic farm on the edge of the Wiltshire Downs, this quirky, affable pub-with-rooms reflects the vision of food ethics pioneer Helen Browning. The well-established pub (Arkell’s Brewery) is loved for the real ales, organic wines and generous organic meals (meat from the farm, produce from local villagers). Set around a sunny courtyard – another long-closed village pub – appealingly rustic bedrooms have woollen throws, a comfortable bed. Each is named after a field on her farm (immortalized in a giant photo on one wall). The residents’ lounge, with books, hot drinks, a record player (and Helen’s partner Tim’s old LPs) is made for ‘wallowing in’.