A Bunyanesque sign for 'Inner Hope' and 'Outer Hope' confronts you as you drive down narrow roads to a smugglers' cove: choose Inner Hope with its picturesque thatched cottages, to find this relaxed, child-friendly small hotel. Owned by London restaurateur Oliver Barker, it is relaxed and unpretentious behind its 1950s exterior, with a cool nautical palette, and views of sea and hills. One double-aspect room has a balcony; two rooms sleep a family. Bathrooms will be updated when the budget allows. Short, Italian-accented menus include dishes such as turbot Hollandaise, orecchiette with chilli and garlic. On rainy days snuggle down by a log-burner. When the sun shines, head for the beach or sit out on the terrace.