Take in ‘superb views’ over the valley from Chris and Zoe Hipwell’s ‘very special’ Georgian town house hotel. The quirky Victorian house (tiled entrance hall, ornate glasswork, the original wood-and-glass bar) has a rich history – ask to explore the atmospheric cellars. Traditionally furnished bedrooms may have river views; one has a four-poster bed; the walnut-trimmed bathrooms have a roll-top bath or walk-in shower. Leigh Matthews’s ‘excellent’ modern British menus are served in the restaurant; breakfast has lots of choice, including omelettes, kedgeree and a full vegetarian. A large terraced garden has views stretching to the limestone cliffs and the River Derwent beyond. ‘Challenging walks’ nearby.