In a Dales village on the River Ure, Charlotte and David Reilly have revamped this former Victorian school and headmaster’s house with panache. Each of the spacious, lofty-ceilinged bedrooms, some with a private terrace, is stylish and characterful in its own way: ornate chandeliers hang from the rafters in one room; an antique Moroccan window serves as a bedhead in another; in a lofty bathroom, twin bathtubs allow for a side-by-side soak. Visit the Master’s Room for afternoon tea, or take it in the large garden in fine weather. Candlelit dinners, preceded by canapés, are modern and locally inspired: perhaps Wensleydale beef, ox cheek, salsify, kale.