On the banks of the River Nith, near the Southern Upland Way, this restaurant-with-rooms with a ‘welcoming atmosphere’ and a ‘restful ambience’ is ‘well worth a detour for the food alone’. Chef/patron Ian McAndrew is praised for his ‘imaginative yet unpretentious menus’ and ‘elegant, inspired cooking’; his wife, Jane, runs the ‘beautiful’ 16th-century stone-built manse with ‘care and attention’. Recently refurbished bedrooms now have an up-to-date bathroom with a spa bath and a monsoon shower. Each room is different, so discuss choices when booking – the River Suite (adjacent to the hotel) has magnificent views from a private patio; a small double room was less liked by guests this year. ‘Plenty of choice’ at a ‘well-cooked breakfast’.