The overnight sleeper from London arrives in the middle of nowhere in time for a breakfast of porridge with Drambuie at Scott Meikle and Stephanie Graham’s restaurant-with-rooms. Dogs are welcomed by resident canines Wallace and Stanley, and given a cushion by the fire. Humans are greeted by the ‘friendly owners’, and shown to a small but ‘lovely, warm and well-appointed’ room with a fridge, binoculars and waterproof map, but no TV, radio, mobile signal or Wi-Fi. In cosy lounges guests read, play Scrabble or pore over a jigsaw puzzle. Packed lunches are supplied to walkers, fuel for exploring the vast swathe of uninhabited moorland and peat bog. ‘Everything is delightfully low key, except for the cuisine!’ writes an admirer in 2018. Ms Graham’s daily-changing menu includes such dishes as slow-cooked beef brisket, roasted neeps, thyme-roasted carrots, horseradish gremolata; also a vegetarian option. ‘Young Steph is very, very special in the kitchen… This gem is not a Hilton, nor an InterContinental – those excellent groups can only dream of having a place like this in their collections.’ (David Davies, Paul and Jen Hogarth)