‘Down a long single-track road, flanked by stone eagles at the gate’, Nick and Charlotte Dent’s Victorian hunting lodge enjoys ‘a glorious setting’ by Loch Gairloch, ‘with enchanting views of cavorting seals’. From the ‘exquisite, oak-panelled vestibule’, to the bar stocking 300 whiskies, everything impressed our inspectors. ‘The first of two lounges was a pleasingly masculine affair, with navy-painted walls, deep leather sofas, cloth-bound books. The other is lighter and more open’, with tall windows on to the water. Bedrooms, overlooking loch or gardens, are supplied with fresh milk, shortbread, the occasional amusing touch. ‘Ours had two Harris tweed-covered armchairs, a long sofa, antique wardrobe, dressing table and chest of drawers.’ The bathroom was ‘all wood panelling, long shutters and gleaming fittings’, with ‘two sweet rubber Nessies for company when bathing’. The dining room serves yet more ‘gorgeous panoramas’, alongside seasonal, daily-changing menus embracing shellfish from the loch, venison and rare breed lamb and beef from the estate. At breakfast, creamy porridge and a vegan dish of ‘grilled tomato, succulent grilled mushrooms, baked beans, potato scone and wilted kale’ hit the spot.