Stone eagles mark your arrival at the gates of Nick and Charlotte Dent’s ‘impressive’ Victorian hunting lodge, down a single-track road, its lawns lapped by Loch Gairloch. Beyond the oak-panelled vestibule, Guide inspectors found a ‘rich and comfortable’ ambience, ‘deep leather sofas, crackling fires, an intimate bar stocking 300 whiskies and smelling peatily of Scotch’. Bedrooms are furnished with antiques. Superior rooms have stunning loch views; the suite has an in-room roll-top bath. ‘Our room had tweed-covered armchairs, a table in the window alcove from which to gaze at starlight’, plus fresh milk and home-made shortbread. A ‘handsome’ panelled bathroom was ‘beautifully fitted’, with two tall, shuttered windows. In a dining room with ‘gorgeous loch views’, Jerome Prodanu’s short menus are devised around locally reared meat, loch fish and shellfish, home-grown vegetables. For instance, pan-seared Ardgay estate pheasant breasts, fondant potato, celeriac, red cabbage, mustard jus. ‘Our meal was good,’ writes a reader, though a promised anniversary cake had been forgotten. A ‘near-perfect breakfast’ brings porridge with maple syrup, vegetarian haggis, the full Scottish.