A ‘top-rate pub-with-rooms’, this 18th-century coaching inn (Fuller’s Hotels and Inns) near the cathedral bursts with character. Under a different name, the pub hosted Lord Nelson on his way to Portsmouth. Jon Howard manages the establishment with ‘helpful, friendly staff’. The cosy bar has real ales (five are usually on tap), a log fire, school-desk tables and walls crammed with pictures and breweriania. Fresh pub classics are served in the wood-panelled dining room. Some of the individually decorated bedrooms are up a narrow staircase; all are well-equipped with a Nespresso machine, a free-of-charge minibar, high-quality toiletries. Pub chatter (‘perfectly bearable’) stops around 11 pm; light (and early) sleepers may wish to discuss room options. Breakfast is ‘excellent’, with ‘outstanding’ local black pudding.