When Max Wigram took on this 17th-century village pub, with Margot Henderson of Shoreditch's Rochelle Canteen to oversee the kitchen, it was on the foodie map before it even opened in April 2023. Nose-to-tail menus are designed to appeal as much to John Deere drivers as to the Chelsea tractor set. Say an ox-tongue bun or braised chard on toast in the bar; rabbit pie or plaice with spinach and cider butter on the restaurant side of a knocked-through inglenook. Bedrooms styled by Frances Penn have a relaxed elegance and sense of space, with pale, serene colours, antique and modern furniture, rugs on timber floors. There is a pretty landscaped garden in which to drink craft beers and local ciders.