‘Faultless and elegant,’ writes a reader after a visit this year to William Griffiths’s ‘fine, family-run hotel’, forged from a 19th-century coaching inn. Its days as a meeting place of the society dedicated to the Welsh language are long gone, replaced by ‘wonderfully comfortable’ bedrooms speaking the lingua franca of contemporary hospitality – Villeroy & Boch bathroom fittings, aromatherapy toiletries, robes, extra fluffy towels. The ‘exceptionally helpful and cheery staff’ are an international lot, too. Original artwork, selected by the keen eye of Pauline Griffiths, William’s mother and owner of a local art gallery, decorate the ‘excellent choice of public rooms’, including the popular Foxhunter bar. There is a sense of drama in the restaurant with its deep burgundy walls, where a ‘first-class’ dinner, courtesy of chef Wesley Hammond, might include grilled prawns and steak, miso, honey and chilli sauce, coconut rice. Leave room for the Angel’s ‘justly renowned’ afternoon tea, and an extensive breakfast, perhaps involving a Mimosa cocktail of fresh orange juice and champagne