Tresanton

A seaside hotel with serious style, Olga Polizzi’s glowing white collection of cottages and former yacht clubhouse cascading down the hillside is a cross between New England and Mediterranean Riviera. Buildings are linked by terraces and gardens with lots of steps; one reader bewailed the fact that ‘the car park is up the hill’ despite valet parking. The setting does, though, make the most of the ‘splendid sea views’, from the restaurant terrace and beach club and from the ‘homely’ bedrooms. These are furnished with an easy elegance, some with terraces, and range in style from understated country house to breezier beach chalet. Modern bathrooms might have twin monsoon showers. At night, the only sound is the sea. Menus are the same in both the restaurant and the dog-friendly bar. Seafood is the obvious choice, perhaps Porthilly oysters, a seafood platter or fishcake with clams. In summer, try the lobster barbecue. Breakfasts feature freshly squeezed juices and cooked items such as mushroom rarebit, and poached eggs and ham on brioche. Service is ‘informal’ but ‘slick’. It’s not cheap, ‘but it’s worth paying for quality’.