A former hunting lodge for the Earls of Gainsborough, the latest in the upmarket Signet Collection was still a work in progress when our inspector called, with 'a spa, hairdresser's, café and farm shop still to open'. It is 'not yet in the same league as sister property The Retreat at Elcot Park but still a stylish place to stay at a very good price'. A glass of wine at check-in was 'a nice touch', as was the dog bed by a wood-burner in reception. 'Light, bright, appealing' first-floor bedrooms with statement fabric headboards, some with views of Rutland Water, surround a courtyard, 'a lovely place to sit in summer'. If you're a light sleeper, ask for a first-floor room; a ground-floor room 'right by the door to the courtyard' was 'quite dark, with small windows, and very noisy' from above. 'There were no robes, biscuits or a safe but there was complimentary ginger citrus liqueur.' At dinner, 'lobster and squid with orange and fennel was an unusual, tasty and beautifully chargrilled starter; gnocchi with wild field mushroom and spinach perfectly executed. Just what we needed after cycling the 23 miles round Rutland Water.' Only continental breakfast is included in the price.