'Extremely luxurious', Jean-Pierre Pinelli's hilltop hotel (Relais & Châteaux) stands in lovely grounds above this fortified harbour town (its 15th-century citadel, built by the Genoese, was bombarded by the British in 1794, when Nelson lost his right eye). The design is part Roman villa, part Corsican monastery: cloisters, mosaics, tiled floors, and a 'superb terrace' for outdoor meals ('romantic sunsets'). A family 'had an elegant two-bedroom suite with lovely balcony'. Some rooms face the citadel, floodlit at night, some are in villas, each with its own swimming pool, in the garden. There iare 5 pools in total, one in the spa. 'Friendly reception, restaurant staff excellent: young, affable, not too matey.' 'Food so light we enjoyed every meal and every course'. There's also a more casual pool bar serving light dishes, and a bar. At the beach, about 20 minutes' walk down and also open to the paying public, the hotel has a restaurant that serves 'good, reasonably priced' snacks. Calvi is also 20 minutes' walk downhill; the hotel offers a shuttle for €22 a day. 'The road is unlit at night' so you'll need to take a taxi.