An unusual and stylish modern hotel (Relais & Châteaux) on a hillside in the south-eastern suburb of Bouliac. Inspired by tobacco dryers, it has been created around a 18th-century farmhouse. It stands in large grounds with vines and a swimming pool. The restaurant is the main focus of the operation. 'Food is delicious, service as friendly as ever,' says a returning visitor. There is a big, multi-level dining room. The 'Zen-like' bedrooms, theatrically lit, vary in size and shape. Each has a vast bed on a plinth; all face the river, and suites have private terraces with Jacuzzi tubs and Harley Davidsons parked in the room. Summer meals are served on a large terrace, and there is a cheaper eatery, the Café de l'Espérance, in the style of an old-fashioned village café. Breakfast comes with little delicacies like pistachio crème brulée. There's an on-site cookery school.