Well away from the tourist crowds which flock to this spectacular hilltop village is the Charial family's sophisticated modern hotel (Relais & Châteaux). Built in the style of a Provençal mas, it has rooms in houses in the luxuriant Mediterranean gardens, and a locally inspired decor; two hotels owned by the family have joined together and share facilities. There are three swimming pools, and the ambience is 'relaxed', 'very peaceful', and the accent is on sport (tennis, riding, etc). Owner Jean-André Charial is manager with his wife, Geneviève. The food at l'Oustau, which has two Michelin stars, is served in the stone-vaulted dining room or outside under lime trees and is thought 'excellent' (eg, filet de toureau et cochon de lait; Saint Jacques en carpaccio ou a la plancha). Other comments: 'The set half-board menu was uniformly good. Service was cheerful.' Cabro d'Or, run by chef Michel Hulin, has a focus on olive oil from the surrounding valley, and uses produce from the hotel's organic kitchen garden.