'Splendidly located' on the quayside and facing south over the Vieux Port is this modern seven-storey B&B hotel with 48 bedrooms. The 1950s exterior is no beauty, but a recent renovation means the rooms feature bright 1950s retro decor and are comfortable and surprisingly quiet. They have huge windows and from your small balcony 'you can watch everything on the promenade below: the sea, the boats, Dumas' island from The Count of Monte Cristo and the little tourist train to the old quarter' as well as panoramic views of the port and the hilltop Notre Dame de la Garde. The chef, Noel Baudrand, serves seasonal Meditteranean cuisine with an emphasis on seafood. 'Breakfast is not spectacular' but staff are very helpful. There is a sandy beach 15 minutes' walk away, and parking is available by arrangement from a public garage 200m away. 'Not grand luxe but highly recommended'.