Midway between Port Ellen and Bowmore, Graeme and Emma Clark dispense freshly baked cakes and a wealth of local knowledge to appreciative B&B guests. Their white-painted house on the Isle of Islay is in a prominent position surrounded by large gardens; the views stretch over the Mull of Oa to the Atlantic beyond. Bedrooms are smartly decorated with antiques and plaid, and are supplied with well-considered perks: good toiletries, Scottish-blended teas, chocolates from a Highland chocolatier. At breakfast, help yourself from a sideboard laden with jugs of juice, and poached and fresh fruit; wholesome cooked dishes include porridge laced with whisky. Glorious scenery, beaches and archaeological sites are within easy reach. Close to the small island airfield; ferry terminals are a short drive away.