With a claim to being Ireland’s oldest coaching inn, this rambling property next to the River Varty has been owned by the same family for almost 200 years. The brothers Gelletlie, the current stewards, have maintained its comfortably grand olde-worlde charm, with antiques, open fires and floral fabrics. ‘Their determination to keep it close to the original 1825 inn has much to do with its evident success,’ wrote a returning fan in 2018. ‘On arrival we enjoyed coffee and good biscuits in the Victorian garden.’ Most of the chintz-filled bedrooms overlook the grounds; in each, extra blankets for chilly nights. Housekeeping standards may not be perfect. The dining room has crisp linen, classic cuisine, ‘slightly disjointed service’. Breakfast is ‘up to the mark’.