‘Guests’ comfort is prioritised’ at the Allen family’s Victorian country house hotel, which stands in parkland, gazing over Highland cattle and gently rolling hills. ‘The feeling is that of a Scottish baronial home,’ say Guide inspectors in 2017. ‘A magnificent bear guards the front hall; antlers and sheep horns hang from the panelled walls; an aromatic log fire entices visitors in.’ Paul Knott, the manager, is ‘warm and friendly’; Mrs Allen, the ‘impeccably turned-out’ proprietress, is ‘perceptive, redoubtable – a true professional’. Choose among traditional bedrooms furnished with antiques; many have countryside views. ‘Our south-facing suite was surely the best room in the house. It had a large bedroom and smaller sitting room; a table and chairs in the oriel window; much reading material. Tasteful lamps lent an atmosphere of intimacy.’ In the dining room, chef Steve MacCallum uses Scottish meat, fish and game, with produce from the garden, in his ‘enjoyable’ dishes, perhaps ‘guineafowl and rare steaks cooked to perfection’; ‘a mouth-watering salted caramel dessert’. ‘It may not be cheap, but it offers value for money – and satisfied customers, like our fellow guests, regularly return.’