Step into the panelled hall of the Allen family's Victorian country house, and it feels like the comfortable home of some outdoorsy friends – albeit with the Relais & Châteaux seal of approval. The situation is lovely amid wooded parkland in soft fruit-growing country. There is nothing corporate here: there is a panelled hall, portrait gallery, lounges with warming fires, comfy sofas, books, board games and malt whiskies. The bedrooms are fittingly traditional with sheets and blankets and Arran Aromatics toiletries. A large suite in shades of apricot has a dual-aspect sitting room, with views over fields, grazed by horses and Highland cattle, to Marlee Loch and the Sidlaw hills. Aperitifs and canapés, coffees and liqueurs bookend dinner. A menu of home-grown and local produce brings dishes such as slow-cooked feather blade of beef with creamed leeks, wild mushrooms, fondant potatoes, roast root vegetables and red wine sauce. 'Attention to detail was second to none.' Hunting, shooting and fishing are all on offer, but if you prefer to stroll in bluebell woods, watching for red squirrels, be their guest.