Old Downton Lodge

Hidden away down a ‘long winding track’, Pippa and Willem Vlok’s restaurant-with-rooms has a secluded, ‘away from it all’ feel. This ‘friendly and efficient’ establishment is set in converted farm buildings, some medieval in origin, and arranged around a courtyard garden. Individually decorated bedrooms are ‘lovely and comfortable’, some have a modern four-poster bed; all have a state-of-the-art bathroom. The dining room, with exposed stone walls and timbered vaulted ceiling, is impressive. Food equally so, created from Shropshire’s natural larder by new chef Nick Bennett. The market menu might include sea bass with octopus, piquillo and garlic, and plum panna cotta to finish. Bennett, who was a MasterChef Professionals finalist, also offers a six-course tasting menu. Arriving late, one trusted reviewer enjoyed a ‘cheeseboard of Shropshire specialities’ and an ‘excellent’ bottle of wine in the ‘relaxing’ lounge bar. Breakfast is also ‘first class’. The hotel is minutes from foodie haven Ludlow, ideal for exploring the blue remembered hills of Shropshire. (Lindsay Hunt and John Fisher, I and FW, PC, and others)