Book well ahead to stay at this luxury restaurant-with-rooms, in a centuries-old hall, where reverence for terroir, traceability and sustainability are at the heart of Mark Birchall's modern cuisine. 'We managed to get on the waiting list,' wrote a reader, who secured Bilberry suite, 'a large room, all chrome mirrors and black leather', with emperor bed, Victorian fireplace, a lake view. There was a freestanding roll-top bath (nowhere for soap, never mind a glass of wine –'Who designs these places?'), plus 'an amazing shower'. After drinks and canapés in the bar, 'we were led by the maȋtre d', out to the kitchen garden, and enjoyed a short talk about the Hall, the garden and Mark'. Then it was back in through the kitchen, past '20-25 chefs, heads down, working with tweezers', to the dining room for an eight-course menu that rates two Michelin stars for such dishes as Paris market carrots, Doddington chrysanthemum, sea buckthorn; White Galloway, barbecued celeriac, mustard, shallot. There is slightly more affordable one-star food in the Barn. Breakfast and afternoon tea are outstanding. (Bill Wood)