The sun and moon make their haste, but this 400-year-old inn near the River Lune remains a dependably restful spot for locals, travellers, hikers and their dogs. Iain and Jenny Black maintain a ‘friendly atmosphere’. The bar is popular for its real ales and log fires; wonky beams add to the ambience. Well-regarded modern country cooking features in the restaurant (dogs can also look forward to a treat after long walkies on the fells). Country-style bedrooms have a comfortable Cumbrian-made bed, Swaledale wool carpets, a host of extras: fresh milk, local biscuits, bottled water. Come morning, a tasty breakfast of home-made granola, pastries, fresh and poached fruit on the buffet.