Iona Sound, frescoed with gently bobbing boats, provides a tranquil outlook for the row of crofters’ cottages that form this ‘amazing little hotel’. Wendy and Rob MacManaway and Katy and Dafydd Russon are its ‘warm, informal hosts’. ‘This is not some luxury resort – we were delighted with it.’ Bedrooms, some ‘cosy’, might have a sloping ceiling, garden view or wood-burning stove; televisions are eschewed for utter peace and quiet. Wooden benches at the top of the lawned garden that slopes down to the shoreline provide a ‘simply heavenly’ spot to watch the evening sun with a glass of wine. New chef Tom Morley (formerly sous chef) is continuing the ‘creative’ use of locally sourced meat and vegetables (much from the organic kitchen garden) and sustainably landed fish. Vegetarians are well catered for with seasonal dishes, while their omnivorous counterparts might dine on braised beef cheek, pastrami tongue, pesto, Parmesan polenta, crispy shallots. At breakfast, organic granola, garden rhubarb and ginger compote, Iona hogget sausages, Mull bacon, and organic eggs supply solid foundation for a day exploring the island’s wilds. More reports, please.