An ‘informal, warmly welcoming’ place, this low-key small hotel is just the ticket for visitors in search of ‘peace and quiet to experience the magic of this lovely, remote island’. In a ‘fabulous position’ overlooking the Sound of Iona, it is owned by Wendy and Rob MacManaway and Katy and Dafydd Russon – ‘charming people’. ‘It’s not some luxury resort with all the mod cons, so some allowances have to be made – that, for us, is the lure of the place,’ fans say. Simply decorated bedrooms in the row of former crofters’ cottages vary in size and shape: there are single rooms, family rooms, rooms with a sloping ceiling, rooms overlooking the garden. The best room, newly refurbished, has a wood-burning stove and views towards the water. At dinner, chef Richard Shwe uses vegetables from local suppliers and the organic kitchen garden, sustainably landed fish, and meat from local crofters. Among the ‘creative, imaginative’ dishes on his menu of ‘great food’, perhaps Mull scallops, Jerusalem artichoke purée, pickled red chillies; roast loin of Iona lamb, rhubarb mustard seed jus, citrus labneh. Breakfast on organic fruit and eggs, Iona hogget, griddled bacon.