The peacocks in the ‘fantastic grounds’ are but a hint of the exotic style of local restaurateur James Thomson’s characterful hotel next to Royal Holyrood Park. Inside the 17th-century mansion, all is opulent, lavish, theatrical. From lush flower arrangements to the gilded furnishings, leather-panelled walls and armfuls of swags and brocades, the place is ‘an orgy for the senses’. Individually decorated with art and antiques, the bedrooms, including five distinctive suites, are ‘wonderful’. There may be velvet-lined walls or a tapestry-hung tester bed; in a bathroom lined in Venetian glass mosaic and marble, find bathrobes, slippers and fluffy towels. All rooms have views over gardens and parkland. Take afternoon tea by a log fire, in rose-filled gardens or in a Gothic tea house. Come evening, dine on classic dishes (perhaps roast roe deer loin, haunch pie, salt-baked beetroot, confit potato, semi-dried cherries) by candlelight in the glamorous restaurant. ‘Every member of staff is welcoming, helpful and charming.’ ‘I had a great stay.’ The Witchery by the Castle (see Shortlist entry), in Edinburgh Old Town, is under the same ownership. (Jean Porter, and others)