In the middle of nowhere, this 18th-century coaching inn-turned-gastronomic destination defines the village to which it gives its name. Awarded Scotland’s first Michelin star in 1987, it has been owned by Katherine and Geoffrey Smeddle since 2006, regaining the star, in 2010, which it retains to this day. It’s a ‘very special’ place, with light, contemporary decor and splashes of colour, along with ‘a warm welcome’ for new arrivals. The bedroom suites are in the Residence, a separate building with a ‘big window’ overlooking the ‘well-tended’ garden. All but one room is split level: steps lead down to a ‘very comfortable’ bedroom and ‘well-equipped’ bathroom; up to a sitting room, where you can take breakfast. At the front of the restaurant is a lounge with padded banquette seats and an open fire. Mr Smeddle’s style is modern Scottish, showcasing the country’s finest seasonal ingredients in such dishes as herb-roasted breast of guineafowl, Anster and potato gratin, scarlet elf cap mushrooms, glazed baby shallots, cider and thyme velouté. ‘Everything is served looking beautiful.’ The ambience is ‘unhurried’, service ‘impeccable’. ‘Not cheap but very luxurious.’