The Peat Inn

Amid rolling countryside, this unassuming roadside inn is so renowned for its outstanding food that it gave its name to the hamlet that grew up around it. Owned by chef Geoffrey Smeddle and his wife, Katherine, it regained its Michelin star (first won in 1987) in 2010, and has held it ever since. Original features of the 18th-century building – raftered ceiling, exposed-stone walls – form the backdrop to a modern elegance of white walls, soft-grey and teal-blue furnishings, and contemporary art. Bedrooms, in a separate building and all split-level bar one, are ‘light and comfortable’ with views over fields. In calm colours, they’re restful spaces, ‘even on a rainy evening, a lovely light place to sit’. Bathrooms, most shower only, are big and modern. Drinks are served in the lounge before a ‘fantastic’ dinner in one of three dining rooms. When our inspectors called, they enjoyed ‘perfect fresh asparagus with lemon en croûte’ from the tasting menu. Or you can pick inspired dishes such as home-cured sea trout pastrami with cucumber and grapefruit, and roe deer with butternut squash and passion fruit purée from the à la carte menu.