A Victorian remodelling of an 18th-century inn, this stone mansion stands tall in a ‘beautiful situation’, with views of Ben Nevis and lawns stretching to the shore of Loch Shiel. It is owned by Jane MacFarlane; Manja and Duncan Gibson have been resident managers for the better part of two decades. Come in to Jacobite-themed paintings on pine-panelled walls; ‘in all the public rooms, roaring log fires, even at the end of May, add to the warmth and comfort of the place’. ‘Comfortably furnished’ loch- or garden-view bedrooms are made welcoming with fresh flowers and a fruit bowl. No room key is offered (‘though there was no hesitation providing one when we asked for it’) – imagine you’re staying with friends. ‘Our Jacobean Suite had a high four-poster bed; in the bathroom, a separate shower and bath, all nicely finished.’ In the restaurant, Duncan Gibson cooks ‘superb’ Scottish recipes with French flair – perhaps roast Lochaber lamb, potato gratin, young leeks. Another day, pull up at the bar, where the menu has ‘good choices – some plain, some fancy, all excellent’. A fine base for the western Highlands; spot golden eagles and red deer from a cruise on the loch. (LW, A and EW)