Long praised for the generous hospitality of its hosts, Derek and Celia Kitchingman, this ‘very quiet’ 19th-century tweed mill-turned-restaurant-with-rooms on the banks of the River Gynack is gaining attention, too, for its food. In the award-winning restaurant, chef David Skiggs’s ‘beautifully presented, high-quality’ cooking ‘keeps getting better’, Guide readers say. On the three-course dinner menu and six-course tasting menu, seasonal Scottish produce is given top billing. Characteristic dishes: wild sea bass, butternut squash purée, cep dumpling, truffle jus; loin of local lamb, cannelloni of shoulder, violet artichokes. In the bedrooms, stone walls and rustic colours (inspired by the surrounding hills) are given a contemporary feel. ‘Our large, airy room had plenty of storage and a modern bathroom; a small balcony overlooked the burn.’ Find books, games and a log fire in the lounges (one for residents only); step outside into gardens and woodland to spot red squirrels and roe deer. Guests arriving on the sleeper train can look forward to a hearty breakfast buffet and ‘a good choice’ of cooked dishes. (MB, GC)