Forss House

An unusual Georgian house in wooded grounds, sitting above a meander in the River Forss, Ian and Sabine Richards’s hotel was once home to Major CRE Radclyffe – author, game hunter, falconer. The eccentric crenellated entrance hall was built for him as a trophy room. Step inside to be ‘warmly’ greeted by Anne Mackenzie, manageress extraordinaire. ‘What a lovely character!’ writes a reader this year. Staff are ‘naturally friendly and welcoming’. Bedrooms are well equipped (fresh fruit, and fresh milk for tea), if slightly old-fashioned. ‘Ours was large and airy, with a two-seater sofa and plenty of storage.’ At dinner, sample chef Andrew Manson’s ‘unusual combinations’, with produce from the sea and neighbouring estates. ‘We enjoyed Caithness Cheddar soup with nettle dumplings; a starter of roe deer, beetroot and chestnut tart. The chefs went the extra mile to present a very pretty veggie meal the evening I didn’t fancy meat.’ Breakfast in the conservatory includes ‘a good range of hot and cold dishes using quality ingredients’. Whisky lovers, settle in – there’s a choice of 300 bottles in the bar. (GC)