Wooded grounds and the meandering River Forss set a tranquil scene for this Georgian hotel with strong fishing links. ‘We were warmly greeted by the manager, Anne Mackenzie (what a lovely character); all the staff were naturally welcoming.’ The bedrooms are well equipped, and individually decorated in traditional style; two of the best, ‘large and airy’, have fresh fruit, and river views from tall Georgian windows. Whisky aficionados, grab a glass: a ‘stunning range of serious whiskies’ lines the bar, ‘each served with a teardrop of water to release the aroma’. At dinnertime, the pleasure is in chef Andrew Manson’s ‘interesting’ weekly-changing menus, which offer ‘unusual combinations’ of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Characteristic dishes: Mey beef, Strathdon Blue cheese butter, truffled green beans, braised oxtail; goat’s cheese ravioli, tomato fondue, pickled onions. (The chef ably rises to the occasion for vegetarians, says a Guide reader who liked her ‘very pretty veggie meal’.) Try the ‘perfect’ Finnan haddock at breakfast in the sunny conservatory, then let the manageress reel you in with bits of fishing lore. (GC, DB)