Come in to ‘a lovely, warm atmosphere and a good mood’ at Lionel Copley and Brendan McDonagh’s town-centre B&B, in a pretty cul-de-sac behind the High Street. Bedrooms have character in their old beams, hand-printed wallpapers, fresh flowers and well-picked vintage furnishings; a cosy ground-floor room leads to the patio garden. ‘Our room on the first floor looked on to St Clement’s church. There were fluffy rugs on the gently sloping floor; lovely, crisp linen on the large bed. A flask of water and a tumbler had been put on each side table; on the tea tray were boiled sweets and a couple of blueberry flapjacks. It was absolutely quiet at night.’ An honesty bar (‘thinly disguised as a bookcase’) in the open-plan lounge quenches pre- and post-dinner thirst. In the morning, the breakfast tables are laid with linen napkins. ‘Brendan brought us freshly squeezed orange juice, cafetière coffee and very good scrambled eggs. My Greek yogurt came in a glass bowl – so much nicer than a plastic tub.’ The town’s pubs and antique shops are a short walk away; Jerwood Gallery, overlooking the fishing boats in the water, is a five-minute stroll.