The Cricket Inn

Fish and chips within sound of the waves, local crab and lobster, and the day’s catch cooked over charcoal are among the attractions at this expanded pub in a small village overlooking Start Bay. The position is ‘absolutely beautiful’, between countryside and sea, and if the approach is slightly hairy, via ‘narrow lanes with some steep hills and sharp bends’, it is ‘worth it once you get there’. Inside it has a nautical feel slightly at odds with cricket theming. First opened in 1867, it was taken over 20 years ago by the Heaths, who added a dining space with rooms above. Rachel Heath runs the inn with son Scott, who previously worked as the chef but is now the owner, assisted by Jamie Smith in the kitchen. Blue-and-white bedrooms, three sleeping a family, have a New England lightness, a shower room, nothing fancy, though Botham and Trueman each have a modern king-size four-poster. ‘We stayed in Oval, with a seat in the large bay window, and very much liked the style of decoration.’ In the dining room there are children’s portions, steaks and burgers. Seafood Sundays are popular, so book ahead, don’t just bowl up.