Harbourmaster Hotel

Light, colour and fishy fun are the key ingredients of this periwinkle-blue building in prime position on cheery Aberaeron’s harbourside. Run with enthusiasm by locally born Glyn and Menna Heulyn, it feels like ‘the hub of the town’, with people coming there as much for the atmosphere as the food and bedrooms. Spread between the original harbourmaster’s house and adjoining warehouse, ‘first-class’ rooms (some quirkily shaped) are ‘stylish and calm’ in breezy shades with crisp, contemporary furnishings, Welsh rugs and designer lighting; most with sea views. Bathrooms are generous, some with roll-top bath. For more privacy, choose the two-bedroom cottage. After drinks on the harbourside terrace, dine in the smart, blue-panelled restaurant or more rustic warehouse (both with boat-bobbing views) on food brimming with Welshness – Carlingford Bay crabs and oysters, Welsh rib of beef and sirloin steak, home-made burger with Welsh Cheddar. Decent vegetarian choices, too, including Welsh rarebit at breakfast. The hard-working, friendly staff, who ensure everything is ‘running smoothly’, add to the ‘wonderful’ experience. (Frances Thomas)