Widescreen coastal views, ‘calm, muted, clotted-cream colours’ and ‘delightful suntrap gardens’ are a successful formula for Malcolm Herring’s ‘unashamedly luxurious’ small hotel. ‘It really does deliver,’ reports a Guide inspector, following a visit in 2018 that saw the tastefully converted 1920s eyrie promoted to full entry. The six ‘spacious’ suites each have a -eapot and cafetière, bone china and fresh milk’. Alongside a ‘big, comfy bed with top-quality linen’, there are armchairs, a window table – ‘meals are served there at no extra cost’ – and a ‘really large bathroom with enormous fluffy towels, bath, separate shower and nice smellies’. Staff are ‘well trained, pleasant and welcoming: a joy!’ Chef Nicola Martin’s light, ‘delicious but not very cheap’ supper dishes embrace the West Country’s natural bounty, perhaps a tian of smoked salmon and Cornish crab with horseradish and lemon mayo; seafood platter with St Ives Bay lobster, local crab and Atlantic prawns; followed by velvet cheesecake with local mead and Kahlúa. ‘Lavish, magnificent’ breakfast included ‘my favourite devilled kidneys’, and kippers. ‘The tea tray’s luxury but not home-made shortbread was the only possible fault.’