The Seaside Boarding House

Order a crab sandwich on the terrace, gaze out over Lyme Bay from this white-painted hotel above Chesil Beach, and you can half imagine you’re in Edward Hopper’s Cape Cod. The ironically named ‘boarding house’ is the creation of Mary-Lou Sturridge and Tony Mackintosh, formerly of London’s Groucho Club, and it has a cool, laid-back ambience with ‘efficient but relaxed staff’. The sea-facing bar and the restaurant, with its row of French windows, are light and airy, with bare floorboards and nautically themed art, while the library is positively snug. ‘Bright, light, seasidey rooms’ have touches of Edwardian style, a claw-footed bath or walk-in shower, cleverly chosen books and a Roberts radio. Each has at least an oblique sea view. Executive chef Alastair Little and head chef James Raybould devise seasonal menus, big on seafood – fish soup, mussels and chips, a half lobster – with maybe bavette steak or roast chicken. ‘An excellent tasty meal.’ A regular says there wasn’t ‘much choice at dinner this time’ but adds she still wants ‘to move down there for the summer’. (JB, and others)