The Queensberry

There’s a huge sense of fun at this stylish hotel, whose logo is Vanity Fair’s caricature of the 9th Marquess of Queensberry, Oscar Wilde’s Nemesis. Laurence and Helen Beere’s ‘exceptional hotel’ in a ‘quirky combination of four town houses’ has pugilism-themed jokes throughout; the decor is knockout too. Junior suites, in former drawing rooms overlooking Russel Street, have floor-to-ceiling windows, an original fireplace, maybe Divine Savages’ Crane Fonda or Portobello Parade wallpaper. Some suites have a seven-foot-square four-poster, a large bathroom with double shower. Club rooms are small but chic, and the use of colour is ravishing. In the Michelin-starred Olive Tree restaurant, Chris Cleghorn’s tasting menus pack a punch with dishes such as Wiltshire lamb loin, anchovy, celery, artichoke, Sarawak pepper; ruby beetroot, alliums, hen of the woods. ‘Food and service were outstanding,’ write readers ‘bowled over by the warm and informative welcome’. Light bites are available in Old Q bar. Continental and cooked breakfasts include pastries, charcuterie, smoked haddock or salmon, a full English or full vegetarian. (Geoffrey Bignell)