That artful couple Justin and Charlotte Salisbury have transformed a 16th-century, thatched village inn (albeit one that had a helipad) into the newest Residence in their small, quirky boutique hotel chain (see index). Guide inspectors received ‘a textbook welcome’, before being shown to one of four bedrooms under the eaves, ‘a splendid suite with high ceiling, exposed beams, large, high bed, copper bathtub’, a ‘well-stocked’ minibar, an espresso machine, ‘upmarket snacks’, gowns and slippers, a bathroom with rainfall shower. In the past year, a bedroom and two no-less-splendid suites have been created in outbuildings, or you can opt for the Shepherd’s Hut, overlooking the herb garden. ‘The public areas have been redecorated in bold, dark colours, William Morris-style wallpaper, heavy wooden furniture, colourful rugs, kilim cushions, neon artwork.’ New chef Tim Kewley’s ‘outstanding’ cooking is served in the bar, with its flagstone floors, wood-burner, ‘nooks and crannies’. Full marks for ‘beautifully presented’ ‘braised brisket topped with caramelised onions on mash with a delicious rich sauce’. At breakfast, there were freshly squeezed juices, scrambled eggs on a toasted muffin.