The Île de Ré, offshore from La Rochelle, is a popular bolthole for wealthy Parisians. It has miles of glorious sandy beaches, an interior of pine forests and vineyards, and plenty of charm (planning regulations forbid unsightly hoardings and oversized buildings). In this little fortified town, still a busy port, the former harbourmaster”s house is now a “supremely stylish” maison d”hôtes. By the quay, it looks on to sea and fortifications on one side, the harbour on the other. “The setting could not be more picturesque,” say inspectors. The decor, described by the owners, M. and Mme Bressy (who live on the first floor), as “faite dans un esprit de maison de famille”, has featured in interior design magazines, although some visitors found the shabby-chic aesthetic a little too shabby for their tastes. Each room is different, decorated with light colours, natural fabrics, seagrass matting and plain wood. All have a view; most have a sitting area and sofa. The salon, in the former boathouse, has an open fire, potted plants. Breakfast is served here, or in the bedroom, “sans limite d”heure”. Plenty of restaurants at the port: the Bistro Marin is well regarded.