On the quay, overlooking the Stour and Orwell estuaries, and with ‘a compelling view over the boats and container ships on the water’, the Milsom family’s hotel is run by friendly young staff. The Victorian building, topped with a cupola, has a first-floor terrace behind iron lace for alfresco dining. ‘Public spaces are decorated in a chic industrial style, with vintage shipping posters framed in fluorescent perspex.’ A main-house room (some are in the annexe) was a fair size, with neutral decor and panorama of navy yard and church. Extras included ‘quality tea and coffee, still and sparkling water, fresh milk and chilled glasses in a mini-fridge’. The bathroom was compact, with bathtub, shower curtain and rain shower head. Minor irritations: no handy socket for the kettle, squeaky floorboard. Light snacks are served by day in the Navyärd bar, while, in the split-level brasserie, there are steaks, chops, Norfolk mussels, Colchester rock oysters, Harwich crab (dressed, baked, devilled, ‘when Gary the Crab can be bothered to fish!’). At breakfast there is house-smoked salmon, eggs Benedict, San Daniele ham.